PentaxLife Tag: K10D

Vitali on "Leaning Pic's"

Vitali — Mon, 21 Apr 2008 03:06:06 +0000

It's a rare issue. Contact your local Pentax dealer. He would help.

Vitali on "K10d manual mode issues"

Vitali — Mon, 21 Apr 2008 03:03:37 +0000

Nope Never seen it.

jbl on "K10d manual mode issues"

jbl — Wed, 16 Apr 2008 14:46:35 +0000

Hi, has anyone had this issue with their camera....with a battery only in the grip, not the camera body, the f stop dial does not function. Its frozen at f8. I have tried various lenses. Even with camera menu selected to use battery from grip first, it does not function in manual or arp/priority mode. Functions fine when battery is in camera body. Also, does anyone have a heads up on where to buy a grip for the samsung?

ratcatcher on "Leaning Pic's"

ratcatcher — Tue, 15 Apr 2008 16:54:38 +0000

Hi All

I have noticed on other Pantax forums that some people with the K10D (myself included) have experienced some of there photo's leaning to one side and i was wandering if anyone on this forum had experienced the same. If so what has been done to fix the issue.

Richard

DSLRS on "PART 2...Dedicated to all Pentax DSLR "Newbies" . Join the fun."

DSLRS — Mon, 10 Mar 2008 04:40:29 +0000

3/9/08

This is Part 2 of the post about Aperture, Shutter Speed and Sensitivity posted on 3/7/08. I am writing these posts especially for all the entry-level photographers. I know that it is over-simplified at times, but as photography skills develop, the techniques will come easy. Too much information at the beginning tends to confuse too much.

Combining all three elements described in my post of March 7th, 2008.

You can understand that to take a properly exposed photograph, one has to balance the aperture and shutter speed according to a sensitivity value (ISO). In the 35mm film era, the sensitivity would remain constant for the duration of the roll of film. In digital, the sensitivity (ISO) can be adjusted on the fly, making this third element more important and flexible than ever. Luckily, technology spares us from long exposure calculations. We can adjust one of these three elements, and the camera will adjust the two other automatically. We can set the Aperture, for example, and let the camera select the appropriate shutter speed. That is called Aperture Priority, (Av or Aperture value) on your camera mode dial. If the exposure is impossible at the chosen aperture, the camera will either suggest using the flash or increasing the ISO rating. Both of these functions can be set to make the decision automatically or within some preset parameters. Alternatively, you can decide to set the shutter speed and the camera will choose the appropriate aperture. That is called Shutter Priority (Tv or Time value) on your mode dial

Your camera (K100D and most of the Pentax 6MP - The K10D and K20D don't have the small icons) has many preset and automatic modes, represented by small icons on the mode dial. This further simplifies the decision making for the photographer. You set the camera to portrait, and the camera is already programmed by Pentax to use the standard settings typical for a portrait shot. You set it to moving objects, and the camera leans toward a fast shutter speed to freeze the action. You set it to landscape and the camera leans toward a small aperture for maximum depth of field. These settings are fine for the casual photographers and at the beginning of your learning curve as photographer, but sooner or later, you will want to have more control over the camera. Although the technical progress made in just the last decade is nothing short of astonishing, the human element is still far superior in decision making. Once you fully understand the three essentials items explained in the preceding post, you will take the creativity control over the camera.

Adjustments to consider

Choosing a small aperture can make the scene in focus from just a few feet or inches in front of the camera to infinity.It is very useful in landscape photography. This effect is proportionally accentuated when using wide angle lenses. However it will require a slower speed or a faster ISO. Tripods are commonly used in landscape photography.

Choosing a large aperture limits the depth of field, making your subject stand out with a blurry background and foreground. (It's really called selective focusing) It will likely require a fast shutter speed or lower ISO value. (P.S. Always try to shoot at the lowest ISO value as possible. It will always produce the minimum amount of noise) This is very useful for portraits. This depth of field is proportionally accentuated with telephoto lenses. However, with telephotos, it will probably require a faster shutter speed (because a telephoto that brings the subject say, five times closer, will also register the movements as being five time faster) or a higher ISO value, as the maximum permitted aperture will be smaller

Using a fast shutter speed can freeze the action and is often used for sports and fast moving activities. However, it will require a wider aperture, a faster ISO value or the use of a flash.

Using a slow shutter speed will allow taking pictures at night or will render a feeling of movement by deliberately blurring a moving area of a scene such as water falls, etc. You will likely need a tripod and perhaps a wider aperture and faster ISO.

You can shoot with a very fast ISO and capture almost any image with little effort, but the image will contain noise.

You must have realized by now that photography is indeed all about light. Modern DSLRs have other tools to further refine the art of capturing the images with the optimum results. Built-in meters give you the choices between multi- segments metering, center-weighted or spot metering. Auto focus modes in either single or continuous focus make your photos crystal clear and sharp despite you. Shake reduction allows using slower speed than most humans could ever achieve by hand-holding the camera. White balance control assures, most of the times anyway, that the color of the scene will be the same on the saved image or file. Instant view of the capture images allows you to retake the shot(s) if not satisfied. The use of memory cards allows you to take hundreds or even thousands of shots, at practically no cost other than the purchasing cost of the card. I tell you, with digital cameras, especially with Pentax DSLRs, we?ve got it made. Remember what they say; ?practice makes perfect? or close to it anyway as I don?t believe that perfection can ever be achieved.

I will continue to post "simple to understand" Digital Photography lessons in the weeks to come. All of the advanced photographers out there, this may be over-simplified for you, but remember that there are many entry-level photographers that need such information. We all started by knowing nothing about photography, and learned Little by little. You can certainly and hopefully contribute to this post, but try not to confuse the "newbies" with too much technical information. Once the basic of photography is understood, the technical stuff will sink in better.

Thanks for reading.

Yvon Bourque - http://pentaxdslrs.blogspot.com

Contribute an answer

mattindustries on "My blog mostly about the K10D"

mattindustries — Fri, 11 Jan 2008 17:29:18 +0000

I might as well add mine to the list, Portfolio and Blog of Matt Sandy

cyberlord on "My blog mostly about the K10D"

cyberlord — Wed, 12 Dec 2007 14:06:49 +0000

When I got frustrated reading the Pentax manuals (DL, K10D, M30, 540 and 360 flash manuals) I decided to write a blog about the K10D and expound on the information contained in the manual.

Thanks for looking.

Photography Rulez

cyberlord on "K10D Forcing RAW As Default"

cyberlord — Wed, 12 Dec 2007 14:02:32 +0000

Yes I agree, all Pentax manuals are very vague and sometimes incorrect or misleading.

I've started a blog about the K10D camera and currently am discussing the menu settings.

Check out this entry on how to set camera to RAW mode.

elhocid on "K10D Forcing RAW As Default"

elhocid — Wed, 12 Dec 2007 11:22:07 +0000

I have RAW+ forced as default for every exposure mode. It is easy, you just have to select which settings will survive camera restart and which you want restored to factory default.
It is very convenient to use and kudos to Pentax for this feature which I missed badly on my previous digital cameras.

RacerX69 on "K10D Forcing RAW As Default"

RacerX69 — Sun, 09 Dec 2007 19:49:31 +0000

Hi Keith,

Thanks for the reply. With your suggestion I figured out how to do it. I set the Mode Dial to User, pressed the Menu button, in the User menu I changed the File Format to RAW, then navigated to Set Up/USER and pressed OK. This saved RAW as the default image format permanently, but only for the USER Mode. So I set the Mode Dial to Aperture Priority and did the same process and viola!, now RAW is the default image format for all settings.

It would be nice if the user manual wasn't so vague and lacking with this type of information. There is a steep learning curve when a person steps up from film to digital cameras, so much more to learn and know. My old film cameras had like, 3 or 4 dials and buttons. The K10D has 23 and many are multi function. With time and help from folks like you I'll get there.

Thanks for the help.
Bob

keithw on "K10D Forcing RAW As Default"

keithw — Sun, 09 Dec 2007 11:06:02 +0000

Hi Bob

You can do this using the Menu button. You should have the Rec mode visible. Scroll down onto the next screen and select the File Format option. You can now choose between JPG, RAW, & RAW+ (both RAW & JPG). Having selected RAW the next option down allows you to selct the RAW format; PEF or DNG. PEF is Pentax's proprietary RAW format whereas DNG is the Adobe format. The main advantage of PEF is that it produces much smaller file sizes while still being lossless.

Hope that helps, happy shooting!

Keith

RacerX69 on "K10D Forcing RAW As Default"

RacerX69 — Sat, 08 Dec 2007 17:45:06 +0000

Hello,

I have used Pentax cameras and lenses for over 37 years. I recently entered the digital arena with an *istDL. Great camera and it hooked me on the new digital world. When the K10D came out I had to have one and when the price came down a bit I picked one up. It is wonderful to have the instant gratification of seeing my images and not having to wait for (or pay for) the film processing. It is also nice to only print those images that I feel are worth the investment of paper and ink.

The only complaint I have is that I cannot figure out how to set the camera to use RAW as the default picture format. Every time I use the camera I have to go into the menu and change the setting from JPEG to RAW. If I let the camera set idle long enough for it to go into standby when I touch the shutter button it has returned to JPEG. This has frustrated me to no end! In my humble opinion, JPEG is a waste of time and space. Sure, it has its place and use, but if I want a JPEG I can always choose to "save as" on the computer when I am reviewing and processing the results of my amateur photographic efforts.

So am I the only one who suffers from this frustration? If not does anyone know of a way to force RAW as the default?

Any help or suggestions are greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Bob

Alex007 on "How to add K10D to my RSE Raw converter?"

Alex007 — Sat, 01 Dec 2007 08:36:25 +0000

Hello my dear Thingo,

First of all thanks so much for your noble helping action for assure that I will be able to enjoy with my lovely K10D also as I already do it with my first DSLR a KM 7D which the recently transfered RSE recognize such more old camera that my second & recently acquired Pentax K10D one.

When my "Computer expert' son will visit us at home...he will make all what you instructed...trusting that will work Pentax 100% well. I will inform you & to all members of this lovely forum!.

Peace,

Alex 007

Thingo on "How to add K10D to my RSE Raw converter?"

Thingo — Fri, 30 Nov 2007 22:11:30 +0000

Alex,

I've a K10D (a wonderful camaera), and use RawShooter. If you check out some notes I've written here:
http://users.bigpond.net.au/thingo/photos/index.html#K10D
You should be ok.

&i (:

Alex007 on "50mm battle: Pentax vs. Nikon"

Alex007 — Wed, 28 Nov 2007 09:42:42 +0000

Dear rvannatta,

Yes I also have the same issue with my ample collected strobes...so what is your problem...set the camera to manual ox "X" set the F stop as the same as indicated on your "Auto" thyristor in use strobe ( I own a Sunpak 443AF, Metz 40Z3, + a Vivitar 3700, those are the ONLY ones that had very low trigger voltage + Central contact only!), so NO problem with the hot shoe contact, among my other 5 strobes two of them Hammer type (Sunpak 522/Metz CL-4),...that can't be use with the K10D. Believe me I can live 100 years with this "Flash issue!

Peace,

Alex 007

Alex007 on "How to add K10D to my RSE Raw converter?"

Alex007 — Wed, 28 Nov 2007 05:27:36 +0000

Hello Pentaxians,

I'm new at this forum, acquired my second DSLR (KM 7D) first, a K10D/kit (No longer in use!), I fitted with a "Sleeper" Tamron 28-20mm zoom lens a first Issue of those models which I brought for a mere $:20.00 here In Israel (BTW...Pentax & KM are NOT a popularly DSLR here pity!!!). for so very hard to obtain lenses for them!.

What I really want to get is some advice/instruction how to "Update" my lovely free downloaded last week Raw converter named "Raw Shooter essentials 2006 1.2 version #:68", to make possible to recognize a K10D...older or first Pentax models are recognized inside this version, but as Adobe acquired the Premium version (Now with some add plugs named "Lightroom"), seems me that soon this free ware will be vanish from all the "Free ware" webs...so before that will occur...I want to "Updated' so will recognize my lovely Pentax?.

Thanks so much for your noble effort!

Peace,

Alex 007

Pentaxdc on "Using fill-in-flash w/ K10D"

Pentaxdc — Tue, 06 Nov 2007 20:17:49 +0000

Hey Elhocid!
Thanks for the reply.
Well, I have been browsing through the owner's manual -again- and played with a few buttons, as you suggested, on the K10D; I think I may have something to work with now. Of course, a better portrait-inside lens would help, as well as a good flash unit ... any recommendations as long as I get a good price-quality deal!
Cheers and thanks again.

elhocid on "Using fill-in-flash w/ K10D"

elhocid — Tue, 06 Nov 2007 17:13:38 +0000

If the face is very close it can be a real problem with flash as simple as the built in one. You can try:
1) Lock the exposure metering to focus point in custom options.
2) Set flash exposure compensation to -1 or so.
3) Make sure the ISO value is low and aperture is high enough (closed).
Getting a more advanced flash is another possibility.

Pentaxdc on "Using fill-in-flash w/ K10D"

Pentaxdc — Mon, 05 Nov 2007 19:50:10 +0000

Does anyone have suggestions on how to properly use the built-in flash on the K10D, assuring that the photo will not be rendered with an overpowering light-flood on the subject's face?
I read, in the owner's manual, that the flash option in the white balance setting should be chosen.
Is this that simply the correct way or am I missing something(s)?
Thank you to all for any feedback.

Pentaxdc on "Newbie at K10D DOF Techniques"

Pentaxdc — Fri, 02 Nov 2007 14:52:49 +0000

Thanks Vitali,
Of course, that is true, any lens @F/1.4 or F2 would do a great job at shallow DOF.
Also, thank you for the link, very useful.
JP
P.S.: I have ordered the new 18-250mm Pentax Da lens ... will let you all know how it performed.

Vitali on "Newbie at K10D DOF Techniques"

Vitali — Thu, 25 Oct 2007 23:32:11 +0000

Any ultrazoom lenses are pretty dim. I mean that they are usual F3.5-5.6. But if you need really shallow DOF you need use apertures like F/1.4 or F/2

Vitali on "Newbie at K10D DOF Techniques"

Vitali — Thu, 25 Oct 2007 23:30:29 +0000

In general, depth of field doesn't depends on particular lens. It's just a matter of sensor size, aperture settings and focal lens.

Try any DOF calculator that can be found online. E.g. http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html

Pentaxdc on "Newbie at K10D DOF Techniques"

Pentaxdc — Wed, 24 Oct 2007 00:41:55 +0000

Hi all!
I have just signed up to this forum and also just received my new Pentax K10D ... quite a hoot!

Would anyone know where to find good, detailed information on DOF while using either a 28-200mm zoom lens and/or prime lenses ranging from 28 to 200mm?
I also need visual samples of photos showing the different methods used and results thereof.
Any help would be appreciated.
Cheers to all.

Vitali on "Why do the results for Bulb or Long exposure take so long to display?"

Vitali — Tue, 23 Oct 2007 11:55:56 +0000

zntgrg is right. Turn off noise reduction.

Your friend's D80 has this feature too but it's either not turned on by default or you friend has turned it off by himself.

zntgrg on "Why do the results for Bulb or Long exposure take so long to display?"

zntgrg — Tue, 23 Oct 2007 08:16:43 +0000

On long exposures Pentax shot twice: a first shot with shutter open, and a second one totally black.

It's a technique called "black mask", an effective noise reduction system: you can disable it in the custom menu, but you can experience strange hot spots in your shot.

mattindustries on "Why do the results for Bulb or Long exposure take so long to display?"

mattindustries — Mon, 22 Oct 2007 18:33:07 +0000

I doubt it has anything to do with the 22bit A/D conversion because the k100d does this as well. I don't know why though.

prasanth on "Why do the results for Bulb or Long exposure take so long to display?"

prasanth — Mon, 22 Oct 2007 14:36:06 +0000

My question is this. I take a lot of night photography where I use either bulb, or exposures which are >3seconds. My friend and I usually go out, and he's got a D80.

Anyway, after say we both take a 30 second shot, he can pretty much instantaneously review his shot after the shot is done. Where as me, I sometimes have to wait for about 10-15 or more seconds longer, after the shot has ended to be able to review my shot. Why does it take so long?

I'm wondering if it has to do anything with the 22bit A/D conversion taking place? :(

Notes:
We both usually shoot RAW, cards are pretty much the same, if anything mine is faster. (2GB SanDisk Extreme III) Same results when shooting in jpeg too, but I have to experiment and see if it's less waiting. Also the lesser the exposure length, the less time I have to wait after the shot ends to review the shot. I know there's many friggin' variables involved in a process like this, I mean these aren't even the same cameras, but I'm just looking for a general answer... if anyone knows one.

Thanks a lot,
PV

Vitali on "Sigma 70mm F2.8 DG EX macro review and samples"

Vitali — Thu, 13 Sep 2007 03:22:53 +0000

Sigma 70mm F2.8 macro tested at SLRgear:
http://www.slrgear.com/reviews/showproduct.php?product=964

ammonyte on "K10 D and infrared"

ammonyte — Mon, 10 Sep 2007 21:54:43 +0000

The K10D isn't as sensitive to IR as it's predecessors. The 72 in Hoya R72 refers to the wavelength (720 nanometers) which (I think) is the 50% cutoff. More details about IR photgraphy are here http://www.dpfwiw.com/ir.htm and here http://www.jr-worldwi.de/photo/index.html?ir_comparisons.html

whitedog on "K10D magentacast"

whitedog — Mon, 10 Sep 2007 20:00:27 +0000

My cam unexpectedly develops a magenta cast on images which pentax colorado says they have not seen/heard of before. Overall pronounced coloration lasts through on/off, white bal changes, card changes.
Seems to appear if not used for period of time. not related to long exposures or temp.
anyone else?